How to make punk patches

Punk patches are pieces of fabric decorated with stencils, screen printing, paint or embroidery, then sewn onto jackets, bags or trousers. The practice grew out of the 1970s DIY ethos, when bands like the Sex Pistols and Crass inspired fans to make their own gear rather than buy it. The basic materials are cheap: scrap fabric, freezer paper or acetate, acrylic paint or screen ink, a needle and thread. The techniques are simple enough to learn in an afternoon.

What materials do you need to start making patches?

You do not need a studio. Most patches are made on a kitchen table with a few basic tools.

Fabric: old jeans, canvas, cotton drill, or cheap blank patches from a craft shop. Denim and canvas are durable; thin cotton is easier to sew but wears out faster.
Stencil material: freezer paper (plastic-coated on one side) is ideal because it can be ironed onto fabric and peels off cleanly. Acetate sheets are reusable but need spray adhesive.
Paint: acrylic paint mixed with fabric medium (available from art shops) works on most fabrics. Screen printing ink is more durable but more expensive. Do not use ordinary emulsion on fabric; it cracks.
Brushes: cheap sponge brushes or stencil brushes for dabbing paint. A stencil brush has stiff bristles for controlled application.
Cutting tools: a craft knife (Stanley knife) and a cutting mat for stencils. Scissors for fabric.
Sewing kit: strong thread (upholstery or button thread), needles (sharps or betweens), and a thimble if you are sewing through thick denim.
Optional: a screen printing frame, squeegee, screen filler or photo emulsion, and a heat gun or iron for setting paint.

How do you make a stencilled punk patch?

Stencilling is the most common method because it is cheap, fast and allows for bold, graphic designs. The process is straightforward.

Design your image. Simple, high-contrast shapes work best. Print or draw your design on paper. Remember that stencils need bridges (small connections) to hold floating parts of the design together.
Cut the stencil. Place the design on a cutting mat and cut out the areas you want to paint using a craft knife. For freezer paper, cut through the paper only, not the plastic coating.
Position the stencil. If using freezer paper, iron it plastic-side down onto the fabric. The heat seals the edges, preventing paint bleed. If using acetate, spray the back with temporary adhesive and press onto the fabric.
Apply paint. Dip a stencil brush or sponge in paint and dab off excess on a paper towel. Use an up-and-down dabbing motion rather than brushing, which can seep under the stencil. Apply two thin coats rather than one thick one.
Remove the stencil. Peel off the freezer paper while the paint is still slightly wet, or score around the edges with a knife if it has dried. Let the patch dry flat.
Heat-set. Once dry, cover with a cloth and iron on a medium-hot setting for 30 seconds to make the paint wash-resistant. Alternatively, use a heat gun.

For more on the visual style of punk, see our history of punk flyer art at /annat/punk-flyer-art/.

How do you screen print patches at home?

Screen printing gives a more professional finish and allows for repeatable designs. It requires a bit more equipment but is still accessible.

Screen: a wooden or aluminium frame with polyester mesh stretched tight. You can make a small screen with an embroidery hoop and mesh, but a proper frame is more durable.
Emulsion or screen filler: photo emulsion allows you to transfer a design photographically; screen filler is painted on to block out areas. For simple designs, screen filler is easier.
Squeegee: a rubber blade with a handle, slightly wider than the design.
Ink: water-based screen printing ink is easiest to clean up; plastisol ink requires heat to cure but is more durable.

The process: stretch the mesh over the frame, apply emulsion or filler to create your stencil (either by painting around your design or using a photographic method), then place the screen on the fabric. Pour a line of ink along one edge, and pull the squeegee across the screen at a 45-degree angle. Lift the screen and you have a print. Heat-set the ink according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Screen printing is good for batches. If you are making patches for a band or a distro, it is worth the setup. For more on DIY production, see our guide to starting a small DIY punk label at /Musik/how-to-start-a-diy-label/.

Can you just paint a patch by hand?

Yes. Hand-painting is the simplest method and requires no stencil or screen. Use acrylic paint mixed with fabric medium, or fabric paint straight from the tube. Paint directly onto the fabric with a brush. For text, you can use a fine brush or a fabric marker. Hand-painted patches have a rougher, more personal look, which suits the DIY aesthetic. They are also good for one-off designs or for adding details to existing patches.

How do you sew a patch onto a jacket so it stays on?

Sewing is the final step, and it is where many patches fail. A few rules will keep your patch attached.

Use strong thread. Upholstery thread or button thread is thicker and more durable than standard sewing thread. Double it if necessary.
Use a backstitch or whipstitch. A backstitch is strong and looks neat; a whipstitch (over-and-over) is faster and good for edges. Sew all the way around the patch, through the patch and the jacket fabric.
Sew through the middle. For large patches, add a few cross stitches in the centre to prevent sagging.
Avoid iron-on patches. They peel off, especially on jackets that get worn and washed. If you must use one, sew around the edges as well.
Consider the fabric. Denim and canvas are tough; use a thimble to push the needle through. If the jacket is lined, try not to sew the lining to the outside.

For a full guide to building a battle jacket that lasts, see /annat/battle-jacket-guide/.

What are some tips for making patches last?

Wash inside out on a cool cycle, or hand wash. Heat and friction break down paint and thread.
Heat-set paint and ink properly. This is the single biggest factor in durability.
Use a patch backing for thin fabrics: iron-on interfacing or a second layer of fabric prevents the patch from tearing.
Store patches flat before sewing to avoid creases.
Repair rather than replace. A patch that is coming loose can be re-sewn; a faded patch can be repainted.

The DIY approach to patches is part of a wider tradition. For a look at how punk and free software share similar ethics, see /geek/punk-and-free-software/.

FAQ

What paint should I use for punk patches?

Acrylic paint mixed with a fabric medium works well on cotton and canvas. Screen printing ink is more durable but costs more. Always heat-set the paint with an iron after it dries to make it wash-resistant.

How do I make a stencil for a punk patch?

Draw or print your design on paper, then cut out the areas you want to paint using a craft knife. Freezer paper is ideal because you can iron it directly onto fabric, which keeps the edges sharp. Acetate stencils are reusable but need spray adhesive to stay in place.

Can I screen print patches at home without expensive equipment?

Yes. A simple wooden frame with polyester mesh, a squeegee and screen filler or photo emulsion is enough. You can also use a cheap embroidery hoop with mesh stretched tight. Many punks start with a homemade screen and water-based ink.

How do I sew a patch onto a jacket so it stays on?

Use a strong thread (upholstery or button thread) and a backstitch or whipstitch around the edges. Sew through the patch and the jacket fabric, not just the surface. For extra security, sew a few cross stitches in the middle. Avoid iron-on patches if you want them to last.